Because waves break over reefs, surfing in many parts of the Pacific isn’t for beginners but for those who know what they are doing it can be a lot of fun.

They say the surfing in the Cook Islands can be rewarding but I have only seen it once, during a very rough storm that created waves on Avarua Harbour and some intrepid local took the boards out for a wild thrill.

In Samoa, there can be terrific surf off the south coast of the main island of Upolu. Sa’ Moana was the first resort to specialise in marketing to surfers (in 1999) but there are a few resorts along the coast that cater well for that niche..

The surf in Fiji can also be excellent but there are no resorts located right near the surf reefs. You can head out for say trips from resorts like Plantation Island, Treasure Island and Castaway Island.

In Vanuatu there are good waves to be found around Port Vila (Pango Point) but they are right above reefs and should only be taken on by competent riders – novices could end up with some nasty coral cuts. You can probably guess how Breaka’s Beach Resort got its name and, while not huge, there are good left and right breaks to be had out front of the resort.

(Photo: Treasure Island Fiji)

This ‘kokoda’ is not the famous New Guinea war-time track but a seafood dish that appears on many menus in Fiji. It is pronounced kokonda, the same way Nadi is pronounced Nandi, not Nardi – the locals in a Suva restaurant laughed when I first ordered the PNG wartime track.

Kokoda is also known as “Coconut Ceviche”, “Tahitian Fish Salad” and, in the Cook Islands, “Mata”. It takes about ten minutes to knock up and it’s a delicious South Pacific favourite. It’s raw fish, marinated in lime juice, with coconut cream and is served cold. Fresh tuna is probably the best choice of fish but even calamari works for me.

For an entrée for 4 people, get:

• 400g fresh fish
• 1/2 cup lime or lemon juice (kiwi fruit can be used for a quick-time marinade)
• 1/2 cup thick coconut cream
• 1/2 cup red onion
• handful chopped coriander
• finely sliced spring onion or two
• a green or red chilli (no seeds, no pith and finely chopped)
• salt and ground black pepper

Cut the fish into small chunks or strips and mix through the lime juice. Leave it in the fridge for at least an hour – up to four hours. The finer the fish is sliced, the quicker it will “cook” in the citrus juice. Combine the remaining ingredients, drain the fish and toss through the coconut mixture. Serve at once with salt and pepper to taste. A crispy bed of lettuce makes a nice presentation and a cool crunchy taste and texture. For a different taste replace the coconut milk with soy sauce. For a speedier marinade, use kiwifruit – don’t leave that one for four hours though or the fish may “melt”.

Bon appetit!

When you first look at the Vanuatu coat of arms and you may only see a ni-Vanuatu man with a spear and a motto in Bislama but there’s much more to it. A lot of thought went into the design. A committee designed it for independence in 1980. The brief was to come up with something that would unite 83 islands, more than 100 cultures and languages, various political parties, 10 Christian denominations (and other faiths) and the bizarre colonial, condominium past. It was a big ask! The detailed aspects are:

• The Man: He is ni-Vanuatu, Melanesian and a chief.
• The Spear: This represents the man’s role as defender and protector of his people
• Armbands: These are ‘shell money’ denoting his role as a dealer in economic exchanges and distributor of services, goods and resources.
• Headdress: Along with the loincloth these represent the many modes of dress found throughout the country.
• The Land: The man stands with both feet firmly on the soil of his land.
• The Mele: The crossed cyclad leaves signify peace.
• The Tusk: The circular pig tusk symbolizes unity, wealth, prosperity and authority.
• The Mat: The mat in front of the man symbolises the importance of agriculture as well as the importance of women’s labour and their role in managing the agricultural economy.
• The Motto: “Long God Yumi Stanap” means more than just “we believe in God”. It is a reminder to give back to God, in sacrifice, all that he has bestowed upon the people.

Kava is a muddy little treasure, pleasure, experiment or tropical dare. It also called ‘yaqona’ in Fiji and ‘ava’ in Samoa. It is a legal opiate that comes from grating or grinding the root of the kava plant.

There is a ceremony that goes with kava drinking in Fiji (hand-clapping before and after a shell) – just follow what the locals do. It should be swilled down in one motion, simply because it tastes pretty ordinary and sipping just drags things out. It is a great stress reliever and is useful in healing urinary tract infections and stomach ailments.

How many shells should you have? Probably no more than three at first although some have a motto that kava is like martinis or breasts – one’s too few, three’s too many. Once your lips become numb, you will have had sufficient to be ‘mellow’. Another test is to get up and go for a short walk as kava can also affect the limbs. Vanuatu kava can be more potent than kava in other South Pacific countries.

It can also heighten the senses so some drinkers find bright lights and loud noises annoying. If you find that kava agrees with you, you can take some home with you and kava tablets are available in some pharmacies and health food stores. Kava drinking in resorts is considered a fun activity and no one minds if you decline but if you go to a village in Fiji and are invited to take kava (especially with the Chief) it is considered impolite not to – and, because kava is served in order of status – the Chief will drink first.

Photo: Namale Resort Fiji

‘Island time’ is part of the Pacific’s laid-back fabric and sometimes it can mean that business hours make their own rules, but generally…

In the Cook Islands business hours are 8:00am to 4:00pm Monday to Friday and 8:00am to midday on Saturday.

In Samoa business hours are 8:00am to midday and 1:30pm to 4:30pm Monday to Friday and Saturday mornings from 8:00am to midday. The post office doesn’t have a ‘siesta’ and opens 9:00am to 4:30pm. Government offices close on Saturday.

In Vanuatu it can all be a bit confusing for the visitor. Offices are generally open from 7:30am to 11:30am and from 1:30pm to 5:00pm, Monday to Friday. Shops open from 8:00am to 11:30am and from 1:30pm to 5:30pm, Monday to Friday and 8:00 to midday on Saturday. Banks open from 8:00 to 3:00pm Monday to Friday and the Post Office from 7:30am to 4:30pm Monday to Friday, 7:30 to midday Saturday. Supermarkets and cafes stay open all day and the Port Vila markets open 24 hours, closing only from midday Saturday to Monday morning.

In Fiji business hours hold few surprises, so long as you’re prepared for a slower pace than at home. As the saying goes, the coconut will fall when it is ripe.